SEALING THE FABRIC
By Ron Alexander
After tightening the Ceconite
fabric with heat, the next step in covering your
airplane using nitrate and butyrate dope is to seal
the fabric weave. This step is critical to a
long-lasting cover job. It is very important that
the first chemical coat be properly applied. This
first coat provides the primary chemical bond to the
fabric itself. All subsequent coats adhere to it.
Nitrate dope is applied as the
first coat on all polyester fabric. Even though
nitrate dope is very flammable, it must be used
initially. Butyrate dope simply will not adhere to
polyester fabric. Otherwise it would be used as the
first coat. So, apply nitrate dope first and then
all remaining coats will be butyrate to reduce the
flammability issue.
The first coat of nitrate
dope must bond to the fabric or all layers are in
jeopardy of peeling. I am sure many of you have
witnessed first hand the peeling off of fabric
coatings. This is a common problem area and
comprises one major reason that aircraft must be
prematurely recovered. If the first coat does not
bond to the fabric you can literally peel it off
along with all subsequent coats. I have seen
aircraft that you could take an air gun and blow the
coatings off of the fabric in sheets. The problem
is usually caused by one of three things: (1) the
fabric was contaminated with dirt or oil, (2) the
chemical was not applied properly, or (3) the
chemical was applied in temperatures that were too
cold.
The trick is to totally
encapsulate the fabric without flooding it.
Applying too much dope will cause runs to occur on
the inside of the fabric that will probably show
through the final coats. Years ago when Grade A
Cotton fabric was used, it would actually absorb the
dope. This is not true for polyester fabric. As an
example, if you wipe up water using a cotton cloth
you will see that it immediately absorbs the water.
Try to wipe up water using polyester fabric -- no
absorption at all. That means you must penetrate
through to the underneath side of the fabric with
the dope without putting it on so heavy that it runs
underneath.
Only non-tautening nitrate
dope should be used on your airplane. As the dopes
shrink they tighten the fabric they have
encapsulated. Non-tautening dopes will shrink as
they age but to a lesser degree than regular dopes.
When using this process you will not shrink the
fabric to its maximum prior to applying the dopes.
You must allow for the resulting shrinkage caused by
the dopes themselves.
I recommend brushing the
first coat of dope onto the fabric. This should be
done only after you have thoroughly cleaned the
fabric using a clean cotton rag and reducer or MEK.
All traces of oil and dirt must be removed. A tack
rag should then be used to wipe down the fabric just
prior to applying the first coat. Failure to
remove dirt and oil will result in an inadequate
bond.
With the first coat we are
working to literally "encapsulate" the fibers of the
fabric. This means the chemical should flow under
the fibers and "grip them" for a good bond. As
previously mentioned, polyester fabric does not
readily absorb liquid. Care must be taken to ensure
proper penetration of the nitrate dope through the
fabric. This is why I recommend brushing on the
first coat. You must penetrate the fabric with the
liquid to get it to the backside or the underneath
side of the surface. Unless you have experience
covering aircraft, it is difficult to tell when you
have an adequate penetration if you are spraying
this first coat. Understand that it may be sprayed,
but only if you are an experienced fabric person.
Nitrate Dope
If you choose non-tautening
nitrate dope as the first coat, then you will thin
the dope 50-50 using nitrate thinner. In other
words, use 1 gallon of thinner for each gallon of
non-tautening nitrate dope. This step is
essential. If the dope is not thinned properly it
will not penetrate the fabric. Mix the two
thoroughly. Then use a high quality bristle brush
and brush on the first coat. Be very careful not to
let the dope drip through to the bottom side of the
fabric. Even though you will want to totally
encapsulate, you do not want it to run through on
the underneath side.
Brush on a wet coat. Be sure
the chemical is penetrating the fabric and flowing
to the underneath side. The fabric should appear
glossy and wet. Do not leave any dry areas. To do
so may show up on the final color coats as a
difference in gloss. You also need to be careful to
work quickly and not leave any brush marks. In
normal temperatures the coating will dry rapidly.
The basic idea of this step is to thoroughly brush
on a wet coat and then make only one more pass with
your brush to level out any small bubbles or marks
that may have formed.
You will apply 3 coats of
nitrate dope. The first is brushed on and the
remaining coats are then sprayed onto the surface.
Use a good quality spray gun and allow each coat to
dry at least 30 minutes before applying succeeding
coats. When you spray be sure you use the cross
coat method. Apply one coat north and south and
then another coat east and west -- this is one cross
coat.
When applying the nitrate
dope, be sure the temperature and humidity are
favorable. You can't always find the perfect
environment but do the best you can. Do not apply
the dope if the temperature is less than 65 degrees
F or higher than 85 degrees F. The humidity should
be less than 50% if at all possible. Remember that
nitrate dope is highly flammable. Do not use space
heaters or any type of open flame to heat a workshop
area. Store the nitrate dope in a safe place.
Don't use electric drills to mix the dope and
thinners.
Rand-O-Proof
Rand-O-Proof is another
non-tautening nitrate dope. It is a Randolph
product designed to be used for the first chemical
coats on Ceconite fabric. Rand-O-Proof should be
thinned 1 to 1 just like nitrate dope. It is also
flammable and sensitive to temperatures like nitrate
dope. Again, three coats are recommended. The
first is brushed on and then the next two sprayed.
Plywood Surfaces
If you are covering a plywood
surface, this first coat is doubly important.
Before placing the fabric onto a plywood structure,
you should have sprayed on at least 3 coats of
nitrate dope or Rand-O-Proof onto the plywood itself
as a pre-coat. This is very important to achieve
proper bonding of the fabric to the plywood. This
procedure also ensures that the fabric will be
entirely encapsulated. Never use butyrate dope for
this step. It will provide no adhesion.
After providing this
pre-coat, the first coat of nitrate dope or
Rand-O-Proof will be brushed onto the surface of the
fabric. The solvents in this coat will reactivate
the dope that was pre-coated. This will cause the
pre-coated dope to adhere to the fabric and penetrate
the backside of the fabric. A very thin coat is
brushed on initially. You should work very slowly
and use the brush as a tool to literally press the
fabric into the drying nitrate product. This will
achieve the necessary adhesion of the fabric to the
plywood structure.
Again, the important thing to
remember is to penetrate and encapsulate the
Ceconite fabric with the
first chemical coat. If the dope does not penetrate
but rather lies on top of the fabric, you can be
guaranteed that within 4-5 years it will peel off.
What is the solution if you have all of the coatings
peeling off of your airplane? Usually the fabric is
good. If so, and you can easily peel coatings to
bare fabric, you can often solve the problem. If
the fabric has not been exposed to the sun or lost
its strength in any other way, you can reapply the
first coat of the process and continue the build-up
of the coatings. Seek the advice of someone with
fabric experience prior to doing this. If you
cannot easily remove all coatings to reach bare
fabric, do not try to use a paint stripper. Use of
a paint stripper to remove chemicals from fabric is
not a recommended procedure. The stripper itself is
very difficult to remove from the fabric. The best
solution is to apply the first coat of dope properly
in the beginning.